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Kelley’s
process
Whether
I'm making a knife blade, hawk, or arrow point I follow about the same
steps.
1. First, I forge an original knife blade, create a model from an artifact,
or forge and grind a model of the first hawk. That original has to be as
perfect as I can make it, realizing that there is a 7% shrinkage factor
between the original and the final steel casting.
Also, I have to remember
how wax and steel flow into the molds, allowing large enough "gates" or
channels for the metal to flow, and allow "vents" for air to escape from the
molds as the wax and steel enter.
2. Once the original model is made, gates are added to allow for metal flow,
and the whole thing is tested for integrity (strength) I make a mold of the
original using my own proprietary process, using my experience with casting
as a jeweler, buckle maker, and blade caster. This process cannot be rushed,
takes several days, and is expensive.
3. When the mold is completed, I inject a melted mixture of waxes and
plastic into the mold cavities, making perfect wax facsimiles of the
original model.
4. The "waxes" are then painstakingly added to a "tree", which is a column
of wax about two inches square and two feet high. Here again, a knowledge of
metal flow, shrinkage, and backflow must be called on to avoid expensive
failures. You don't want a tree collapsing and molten steel flowing out a
hole or onto the foundry floor and onto your shoes.
5. At the foundry, the tree is immersed in a slurry of "investment" which
looks like thin pancake batter and is actually a thin mixture of ceramic
clay and other bonding agents. This is the ancient lost wax casting method
with state-of-the-art technology so precise it is now called "precision
investment casting". It takes several days to surround each wax model with
investment, let it dry, dip it again, avoiding bubbles, and continue the
process until the entire tree looks like a corndog.
6. The tree is then allowed to cure until completely dry, then it is taken
to the walk-in oven where it is inverted and the wax is burned out, then
vaporized leaving a clean cavity, as smooth as a dinner plate, into which
the molten steel will be poured.
7. Wearing hooded asbestos fire suits, we simultaneously remove the
yellow-hot tree from the burnout oven as a team of workers lifts the
induction furnace crucible and pours white-hot steel into the tree mold
cavity.
8. After the steel cools, and shrinks, and the mold cools, workers knock the
hard ceramic off the steel castings, and they are removed from the tree with
a plasma cutter.
9. Next, each piece is individually sandblasted clean, and they are returned
to the shop where I hand grind the sprues off each piece, rough grind the
knife blades, heat and straighten any warped blades, (D2 is notorious for
warpage) and ready the parts for tempering.
10. I have all my blades and points commercially heat treated in an
atmosphere controlled furnace and tempered to Rockwell 58-59 for knife
blades and 57 for hawks and arrow points.
11. The blades are then final edge ground, arrowheads are ground to matched
weights, each knife blade is hand sharpened on Arkansas stones, and both
blades and arrow points are individually blued with Birchwood Casey Cold Gun
Bluing paste.
12. Last, each knife is tested to be sure it will shave, they are oiled,
packaged and matched to the order slips waiting for shipment. Arrow points
are inspected, checked for sharpness, and are made ready for shipping.
Return
to "Ferroulithics"
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